There’s not a bad seat at this always-packed Fitzroy icon, but a spot by the broad front windows is perfect for watching Gertrude Street in full swing, backed by something from the prodigious wine list. Don’t be intimidated; charming, unflappable waitstaff are ready with spot-on recommendations, no matter how you express what you’d like.

A minerally vermentino, for example, to match a flaky tart laden with buttered leeks, barrel-aged feta and a tangle of zesty herbs. Plummy pinot meunier offsets chilli-drenched octopus on crunchy croutons while mains are a work of French-leaning precision and modern edge.

Try brittle-skinned John dory basking in tarragon beurre blanc fragrant with pickled garlic, and perhaps a textbook silky flan boosted with vermouth thereafter. Marion is the blueprint for a thousand wine bar facsimiles and one visit tells you why.

Must-order dish: Baked vodka rigate for the socials, octopus on toast for the tastebuds.

Good Food reviews are booked anonymously and paid independently. A restaurant can’t pay for a review or inclusion in the Good Food Guide.