Elevator doors glide open. Besuited greeters usher arrivals through a low-lit lounge into a glittering room of fringed lamps and luscious caramel banquettes. Champagne flutes dot tables while well-preened diners snap selfies with the fervour of influencers flying business class for the first time.

Flashy meets familiar in the food, starting with crunchy lobster croquettes bulging with top-shelf shellfish. Steak tartare comes with perfect potato crisps. A petite bowl of cavatelli with fork-tender beef-rib ragu is perfect in its richness. Larger dishes keep it simple: perhaps confit duck leg on French lentils or a trio of precisely grilled lamb cutlets.

You’ll need a side of thyme-dusted fries for both. Service can be less on-song than the cooking – at times, a call button could be handy – but a gorgeous hazelnut-crusted choc-caramel dome crowned by a curl of gold leaf guarantees a happy landing.

Good to know: A set ‘chef’s selection’ menu is a good way to join the scene without any sticker shock at the end of the night.

Good Food reviews are booked anonymously and paid independently. A restaurant can’t pay for a review or inclusion in the Good Food Guide.