Mood lighting. Cool vinyl collection. Mismatched-yet-cosy furnishings. A disco ball sprinkling squares of lavender light upon exposed brick. Lilac aces the vibe check, but it also boasts knowledgeable, warm staff who command the 100-seat room with ease.

Food is honest and considered, and each ingredient is brought to life on the wood-fire grill. Eggplant is charred until tender, then whipped into a silky, smoky dip topped with crunchy flax seeds and served with crisp crudites from the restaurant’s farm. Complete the party with rotund, blistered bread, slick with garlic oil.

Perennial crowdpleasers prove just as comforting here, whether it’s juicy charcoal chicken with zesty peri-peri sauce, or tart apple crumble with whisky creme anglaise. Cocktails such as the tequila, blackberry and lime Spellbound pack a punch, and an extensive list is packed with Aussie and European drops.

Good to know: The Wednesday steak night is a drawcard.

Good Food reviews are booked anonymously and paid independently. A restaurant can’t pay for a review or inclusion in the Good Food Guide.