Horseshoes are meant to be lucky, and that’s exactly how you’ll feel perched around this noisy U-shaped bar, elbow to elbow with locals, peering across the smoky open kitchen as veg is charred and meat grilled. The nightly chalkboard menu champions nose-to-tail eating in plates that are elegant but simple.

Briny slivers of garfish are cured in vinegar and splashed with fruity olive oil, magic with thick slices of housemade bread. Chunky leeks are smoked, grilled and served with rich curried-egg mayonnaise, and cider-braised Port Phillip octopus is kissed with fire and tossed with fermented jalapeno.

Produce is sourced from small-scale operators, much like the quirky, quaffable wines. End with a petite wedge of Basque cheesecake and an alpine panacea from the amari shelf, and ponder the perfectly peculiar murals lining the brick walls of this neighbourhood north star.

Good to know: Hate “no reservations” roulette? Groups of five or more can book online.

Good Food reviews are booked anonymously and paid independently. A restaurant can’t pay for a review or inclusion in the Good Food Guide.