The bird owes its name to an umami-rich marinade made from Reed & Co Distillery’s own koji, Japan’s flavour-unleashing fungus. Chef Yasuaki Tokuda grills each juicy half-chicken over wood before adding a thwack of punchy fermented chilli, then passes it across the long marble counter.

Down the other end, distiller Rachel Reed shakes cocktails made from her own gin and shochu, a koji-based spirit, while chirpy waiters in Akubra hats work the room. Plump chooks may be the stars of the show but talented supporting players include rosy Harrietville rainbow trout smoked in-house, and superbly savoury tempura vegetables sprinkled with Japanese curry salt.

The single dessert is a luscious bruleed custard slice. Bar seats offer the best view of the fiery action but tables have glimpses of gleaming distillery gear and an elegant spirits tasting room. Charcoal chicken spreads its wings – and we’re on board.

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