Walking into Kitchen 55 feels like being invited into a family’s passion project, and that’s because it is one. Persian disco bubbles behind conversations of local diners in the know, while attentive waitstaff guide you through the menu with a smile and modest pride.

Flatbread scoops up smoky eggplant and caramelised onion dip, and another of spinach and yoghurt. Pitted olives reside in a chunky mixture of walnuts and pomegranate molasses. The menu shifts with the seasons but slow-cooked meat atop fragrant herbed rice is a focus. Baghali polo showcases fall-off-the-bone lamb shanks, broad beans and dill-flecked rice.

Desserts continue the theme of subtle balanced spices, with traditional house-made saffron ice-cream, and delicate rice puddings enriched by rosewater and cinnamon. Mains rotate each night of the week, giving you plenty of reasons to return.

Best for: Homely Persian cooking.

Good Food reviews are booked anonymously and paid independently. A restaurant can’t pay for a review or inclusion in the Good Food Guide.