Jaathara’s menu might list popular comforts like butter chicken and naan, but the real stars are the Southern Indian specialties. Start with mysore bonda: five golden, spice-flecked spheres made from rice and wheat flours, yoghurt and coriander.

Crisp on the outside and soft within, they’re lifted by coconut chutney, tomato-chilli chutney and tangy sambar. Ghee tawa idli are a must: steamed, bite-sized cakes fried in ghee until nutty and aromatic with podi – a crucial South Indian spice mix – and curry leaves. Masala pesarattu – a green mung-bean crepe wrapped around potato, onion and carrot masala – is hearty and earthy.

Order a lightly sweet masala chai to cut through the richness. For dessert, gulab jamun arrives warm, syrup-soaked and accompanied by vanilla ice-cream. Service can lag, but the room is bright and welcoming. A Footscray go-to for affordable Southern Indian classics.

Must-order: JTR mysore bonda.

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