Spanning three floors of a modest Swanston Street building, this specialised spot offers plant-based takes on nearly 100 dishes from across China.

Head to the all you-can-eat buffet on level one to build your own hot pot. A spread of fresh vegetables is ready to join tom yum, mushroom or tomato broth, and dipping sauces that range from sesame to roasted chilli.

Level two holds a cosy a la carte dining room hung with golden lanterns. Boiled vegetable dumplings are stuffed to the seams with dazzlingly fresh greens. Soy-based pork is well-crusted and partnered by pineapple in a glossy sweet-and-sour sauce. Jiangxi-style claypot soup brims with tofu, snowpeas and radish. Gong De Lin is a vegetarian’s delight, hidden in plain sight.

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