The ephemera are familiar, the owners are the same, the olives and anchovies and free crusty bread are still on offer. It was Rathdowne Street’s capital of cool for 19 years, but this big, new iteration is a dramatic contrast to the original. You can absolutely still come here for meats and cheeses and tinned fishies, but the rest of the offering is better than ever.

Matthew Podbury’s menu marks a departure from the Spanish-leaning bent of the past, his experience in French fine dining showing up under a glistening bonito fillet in the form of a herbaceous sauce vierge. Golden beetroot is sliced thin and showered with vibrant orange mimolette cheese.

Hand-extruded spaghetti, dotted with shelled mussels and bathed in a cider-based sauce, packs more flavour than its simple ingredients imply. The wine list hasn’t changed much, and there are still plenty of people who will lead you through its vast riches to a genuine bargain. Plenty to love at Gerald’s 2.0.

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