Like singer Etta James, Lorcan Kan’s cooking has a distinct voice that spans genres. The chef turns out note-perfect accompaniments, fire-licked meat and fish, produce and things-on-sticks. For a concise menu, there’s a lot going on; the eclectic wine list provides back-up vocals and added intrigue.

Kan has a way with chilli oil. His cult dessert parfait with tingling heat gets deserved attention, but a banana, miso caramel and ginger pudding is less tongue-confronting and straight-up comforting. See also: zongzi, a tetrahedron of sticky rice with black bean chilli crisp and oyster mushrooms – savoury to the power of three.

There’s delicacy in house-made golden tofu: its gently fried outer yields to a quivering middle matched by silky corn puree. The chic grey room and unpretentious service are totally of this city. Entering the space is a warm embrace.

Good to know: Etta restaurateur Hannah Green is behind the forthcoming Daphne three doors down.

Good Food reviews are booked anonymously and paid independently. A restaurant can’t pay for a review or inclusion in the Good Food Guide.