Its name references a 14th century writer, but Boccaccio embodies the wine bar zeitgeist. Activity swirls around the white marble bar, waiters expertly squeezing past or slicing top-notch salumi and properly matured cheeses from brass-edged glass cabinets.

Heartier fare may include hibachi-grilled octopus, its salty chariness balanced by the cool almond backbeat of ajo blanco. House-made tagliatelle possesses perfect al dente bite and slides through an elegantly rich pork and veal ragu. The sweetness of seared pear tarte tatin is tempered by creme fraiche sorbet. But let’s not forget the enoteca bit.

An impressive wine list spans a good range of Italian and local wines by glass and a vast selection by bottle, including deep dives into Italian icons such as Barolo. Knowledgeable, affable staff help navigate the cellar’s myriad choices and smoothly deal with any hiccups.

Good to know: You can BYO – at dinner from Tuesday to Thursday, and lunch on Friday and Saturday – for $20 per bottle.

Good Food reviews are booked anonymously and paid independently. A restaurant can’t pay for a review or inclusion in the Good Food Guide.