It’s lively. It’s unbuttoned. There’s a joyful din in the air and dill on the breeze. You’re in the youthful reaches of Brunswick East at a rollicking tribute to eastern European home-cooking. The carbs are flowing freely; everyone’s having an excellent time (not least the staff).

The food is somehow both rustic and riotous. Fasolka szparagowa is a yellow and green bean dish worth talking about thanks to buttery crumbs, smoky cow’s milk cheese and charred lemon. Mięso pierogi is the best beef and veg stew you’ve ever had – in dumpling form – topped with a salty-sweet mix of bacon and onion.

There’s vodka, rakija and slivovitz for days – infused with fruit, riffed into classic cocktails or lined up in flights. Sage-green tiles wrap the bar, while pop-art posters add a colourful wink to the walls. Polished Polish with purpose and personality to spare.

Good to know: The set menu ($59) and infinite pierogi Mondays ($39) are a steal.

Good Food reviews are booked anonymously and paid independently. A restaurant can’t pay for a review or inclusion in the Good Food Guide.