Like its two-hatted sister Citta, the spunkiest (and youngest) member of the family displays Rinaldo Di Stasio’s artistic sensibilities in the food as much as the fitout. Take the pizza carpaccio: eye fillet hammered to tissue and stretched to the edge of a blistered canvas, sharp rectangles of Parmigiano-Reggiano that echo the room’s severe lines.

Fior di latte soft-serve, lavished with piquant olive oil and good salt, is coiled into a parfait cup that highlights the restaurant’s Bottega-green accents. The artistry, of course, extends beyond pizza and ice-cream. Gamberi e ceci is a tumble of prawns and crisp chickpeas perfumed with rosemary, while delicate, parmesan-crusted orange roughy buckles at the touch of the tongue.

Staff are on your side and know their juice; allow them to match your pizza with something stony from the Veneto.

Best for: A fancy pizza date-night replete with the odd celebrity sighting.

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