How many weary Melburnians have stood hopefully upon the wooden stair of this timeless wine bar, praying their favourite perch is available? Whether you’re a people-watcher on the Parisian-style pavement tables, a show pony by the entry or a percher at the green-tiled bar, if you’re here you understand the magical formula that adds up to City Wine Shop.

The trusty parmesan-and-panko-coated chicken schnitzel is a big, golden, juicy factor. Unruffled service plays its part. Staff don’t mind if you’re in for one glass or ready to drop hundreds on grower champagne. Then there’s the comfort of the familiar. Polenta chips, chicken liver parfait, plump gnocchi – all are as reliable as the hours this place keeps, serving noon til late at night, non-stop, seven days. It’s not for thrill-seekers but it’s got enough energy to remind you what good living is all about.

Best for: Those in-between moments when it’s past lunch, too late for dinner or simply the right time for a glass and a snack.

Good Food reviews are booked anonymously and paid independently. A restaurant can’t pay for a review or inclusion in the Good Food Guide.