Cult following doesn’t cover it – Aunty’s cooking is the stuff of legend among locals and chefs. Follow the derelict arcade to a humble dining room and prepare for a homespun masterclass in “luwei”, light soy, rice wine and five-spice seasoning. It’s the backbone of Teochew cooking, and it’s in delicious evidence in the braised duck and tofu platter.

Crisp oyster omelette with a chewy middle might follow, then “white” char kwai teow, light on the dark soy, heavy on sweet pickled radish. Seasoned eaters love the sashimi scampi, the stir-fried conch, the foie gras.

They also call ahead to chat specials, maybe steamed mudcrab with glutinous rice wrapped in bamboo leaves; organic chicken, head and feet intact; slow-cooked conch; and whatever else a Teochew childhood might conjure. Finish with buttery taro paste enriched with pork lard. Reservations and patience are recommended.

Best for: A “sifang cai” experience – homestyle deliciousness served in an intimate setting.

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