In Thailand, every region has its specialty dishes, every household has its variances, every street corner has something new to discover. And at long last, a greater spectrum of all that is available in Melbourne. Boon Choou is focused on family cooking, introducing dishes that may be unfamiliar to some diners, but intensely nostalgic for others.

A sticky rice roll of pork belly imbued with five spice reflects the Chinese influence on Bangkok’s food. Dishes are dispatched from an open kitchen in a pretty, heritage building with exposed brick walls and green banquettes. A coconut flesh dumpling with shrimp floss and coconut milk is subtly sweet and texturally thrilling.

The ginger-heavy glass noodles of woonsen might hide wild-caught abalone, prawns, or hand-picked hunks of crab meat. And the khao soi might be Melbourne’s best rendition of this curry chicken noodle soup. With such a rich menu, this spot is worthy of repeat visits.

Must-order: Kuaj tiew lord rice and pork rolls

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