I’ve been to this Thai restaurant three times already, and can’t wait to go back

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The last decade has seen a seismic shift in Melbourne dining, most notably in the explosion of Korean and Thai restaurants, and the variety found in those restaurants. As an example, you could consider khao soi, the Northern Thai and Laotian yellow noodle curry soup that was nearly impossible to find 10 years ago. Now it’s everywhere – there’s even a restaurant in the CBD named for and devoted to the dish.

Part of why this boom in Thai cooking is so exciting is the kaleidoscopic nature of the cuisine – in Thailand, every region has its specialties, every household has its variances, every street corner has something new to discover. Sydney has long had much of that variety, so it’s not that surprising that one of the most exciting new Thai options is from an operator who was a part of that Sydney scene.

Poowadon “Sam” Pothiprasert was born in Thailand, but comes to Melbourne on the back of a five-year stint at Chat Thai in Circular Quay. His new restaurant, Boon Choou, is focused on family cooking, introducing dishes that may be unfamiliar to some diners, but intensely nostalgic for others. Boon Choou is notable for that reason, but it’s also a very pretty restaurant, located in a heritage building with brick walls, green banquettes and an open kitchen. More important still: the cooking is stellar.

There’s originality in this cooking, and elements that go beyond comfort or tradition.

Some dishes have already become signatures. A pork belly-filled rice roll – the rice batter made in-house, all sticky, meaty and sweet – is imbued with five spice as a nod to Pothiprasert’s Chinese grandfather and the Chinese influence on the food of Bangkok. Pothiprasert’s mum’s fish curry with green banana is a turmeric-heavy wonder, the fish fresh, the curry bright and bracing.

On the extensive menu, I found a lot of joy seeking out things I’d never eaten before. A coconut flesh dumpling with shrimp floss and coconut milk was subtly sweet and texturally thrilling.

At night, they serve a ginger-heavy glass noodle dish (woonsen), which you can get with wild-caught abalone, prawns, or hand-picked hunks of crab meat. The strips of green shallot on the side have an almost floral quality to them; it’s a dish that’s delicate and subtle and lovely.

If you’re a fan of eggplant cooked to a pudding-like lacquered slump, you should not go past the pad ma kruea yaaw, a stir-fried eggplant and minced chicken number that sings with chilli and basil.

Even the more familiar dishes here feel new. There’s a tom yum soup with giant wild prawns that had my table in raptures thanks to the depth of flavour in the broth, a layering of fiery spice and soothing acid and a toasty sweetness that bordered on burnt honey without ever veering past savoury.

And Pothiprasert does what is now my favourite khao soi in town, the curry broth rich and complex, the chicken falling off its bone, the egg noodles springy. What really sets it apart is the addition of whole peeled and lightly pickled shallots, which sit like clustered jewels and add a pop of intense brightness to every few mouthfuls. There’s originality in this cooking, and elements that go beyond comfort or tradition and rely heavily on skill and creativity.

Drinks are more slavishly authentic to Thailand, which is to say they are sugary and tropical and not especially boozy, but if you’ve ever had a bucket of something fruity on a beach in Koh Samui, these will feel pleasingly familiar.

Service is friendly and hasty – there’s no hand-holding beyond “spicy OK?” You can make bookings, which I appreciate in this era of lining up for Thai food, but even if you walk in, they’re happy to take your number and call you when a table is ready. I’d much rather go drink at a nearby bar than stand on the street, so that’s a plus, too.

The menu at Boon Choou is huge – I’ve been three times with multiple friends and feel as though I’ve barely scratched the surface. But every dish I’ve tried has been exciting and delicious, and some of them are standard-bearers. It’s an electrifying addition to our vibrant Thai food scene. I can’t wait to go back.

Good Food reviews are booked anonymously and paid independently. A restaurant can’t pay for a review or inclusion in the Good Food Guide.