Now in the hands of executive chef Paul Lewis, the Ritz-Carlton’s fine diner is a little more restrained and classical in its cooking, with the occasional nod to the Australiana focus of its first two years. Yes, there’s wallaby tartare, and macadamia on the local pork, but there’s also steak with lobster bearnaise.

This is not to say there’s no creativity. Ruby slices of lightly cured tuna come daubed with a cream made from tuna bone and dashi, the fish laid over pickled citrus. A savoury cookie in the shape of a flower is filled with subtle gruyere custard and lemon thyme gel.

But the best dishes are more familiar. You’d be hard pressed to find a better cooked piece of duck, served here with pickled blackberry and a sauce of aniseed and myrtle, alongside a pile of fat snappy asparagus bathed in a blackened lemon vinaigrette. As far as hotel dining goes, this ticks the box.

Best for: Special occasions when all that’s desired is a nice view, a grand but relatively quiet room, and a well-cooked steak.

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