The vibe here is decidedly more is more. Ornate carpets and jewel-toned teapots are numerous. A buffet-style salad bar sits next to a grand piano, where a gentleman in a tux plays show tunes.

You’d best like rice, because it’s piled high on platters ready to carry the flavours of Iran’s many stews. Earthy ghormeh sabzi is rich with kidney beans and shreds of lamb shoulder.

In baghali polo, rice competes for real estate with dill and broad beans. It provides a refreshing sidekick for juicy lamb shanks simmered in tomato, cinnamon and turmeric. Grilled kababs of lamb and beef are so smoky and potent, you’ll be surprised to learn the only magic ingredient is minced onions.

Wine is sold at retro prices, but black Persian tea served with cubes of sugar is more on-theme.

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