If you’re not ordering the roast chicken and mortadella agnolotti in brodo as a mid-course, please see yourself out. If not for the chubby pasta knots bobbing around in that golden, perfectly clarified, lip-stickingly unctuous broth, then for the nonna-fabulous tureen it’s served in.

The newest in a line of hits (Bar Copains, Bessie’s and Alma’s) from chefs Morgan McGlone and Nathan Sasi, this sweet, buzzy Italian restaurant lives on the old Bar Vincent site.

Order a Campari and blood orange and an orb of focaccia with smooth house-made ricotta, then make your way through a battery of flavour bombs, from anchovy-stuffed zucchini fritters to the sweetest eggplant alla Norma. And then there’s the house-made pork belly sausage on braised lentils, with quince mustard and salsa verde.

Return visits will be needed for the pig-fat cannolo and lemon tart, if a simple scoop of choc-hazelnut gelato is anything to go by.

Good to know: Grab a table outside in the warmer months for snacks and a bottle of wine.

Good Food reviews are booked anonymously and paid independently. A restaurant can’t pay for a review or inclusion in the Good Food Guide.