The coal fire does the heavy lifting in this New England-style timber lodge a scenic half hour’s drive from Gundagai, softening charred cabbage laced with punchy ’nduja butter and crisping the skin on a butterflied trout pulled from the Snowy Mountains just over the horizon.

A dill-flecked sausage bursting with more trout lands on vivid carrot puree, while thin sheets of rolled pork belly are lifted by a zing of capsicum jam and pickled fennel.

The combo of protein, preserve and relish has become a Ducks’ signature move, and who can argue when local lamb arrives perfectly pink beside a jumble of coarse caponata and zucchini pickles, followed by a rustic apple crumble that crunches like an Anzac biscuit and smells faintly of woodsmoke.

With its pastoral setting and region-championing drinks list, this is country hospitality done with plenty of polish and very little pretence.

Best for: Capping off a big day exploring the Riverina.

Good Food reviews are booked anonymously and paid independently. A restaurant can’t pay for a review or inclusion in the Good Food Guide.