Reinvention is par for the course in Surry Hills, and this landmark Crown Street pub has undergone a serious mid-life glow-up.

The luxe renovation – all plush banquettes, soft carpets, diffused lighting and statement artworks – backdrops a pub-meets-fine-dining menu scattered with gold-star dishes.

Jumbles of spanner crab come on crisp chicken-skin crackers with juicy pops of cider gel; anchovies are draped around swirls of whipped ricotta on crunchy sourdough toasts; lobster-stuffed pappardelle, like giant ravioli, is ramped up with umami-rich broth.

The counter-meal gets a nod by way of a wagyu burger and pork schnitzel, while velvety short-rib – gently spiced with pepper sauce and native muntries – supersedes standard-issue pub fare.

Brie-infused ice-cream (it’s good!), a whip-smart 100-bottle wine list and leafy upstairs terrace are more reasons to get behind this coming-of-age story.

Good to know: Walk-ins are welcome for cocktails and snacks at the bar upstairs

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