Part historic pub, part bucolic fairy tale, this sprawling retreat just a click off the Hume isn’t a detour, it’s a destination. Low-lit rooms lined with bookshelves and warmed by open fires set a cosy backdrop for spice-laden fioretti fritti dressed with fried curry leaves, and brooding, unctuous coq au vin.

On warmer days, the expansive garden hosts live music and a classic line-up of balloon-edged pizzas with biscuit-crisp bases and, sure, there’s a parma on the menu, but the pork cotoletta – slathered with coarse sugo and accompanied by a hearty dollop of whipped ricotta – elevates the cheesy schnitzel concept to bright new heights.

It’s an order-at-the-bar operation, but the service is joyous, the gingerbready sticky date pudding is a festive ode to winter and the wine list is a celebration of what makes the region great. Just like this hotel.

Good to know: The neat, modern cabins make this a great overnight stop on the Sydney to Melbourne drive.

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