It can be tricky to get your head around The Rover. The bold tartan carpet says “British pub roasts”, but then the menu is oysters and burgers. Those burgers say “craft beer please”, but this is a cocktail bar with an extensive wine list.

Our advice? Don’t overthink it, and instead dive into a dozen of those oysters, paired with a bone-dry sparkling Chablis. Nice. Move, then, to The Gidley burger, care of The Rover’s sister establishment in the CBD. A double beef patty is engulfed with American cheese and comes with hunky pickles on the side; the chips are thin and crisp.

You could spend your entire night at cosied up in a booth or balanced on a bar stool, but the place is perhaps best for pre- or post-dining, for oysters and sparkling to kick the night off (or a very well made Old Fashioned), and a whisky – neat – to wind it down.

Best for: Pre-dinner snacks or post-meal whisky.

Good Food reviews are booked anonymously and paid independently. A restaurant can’t pay for a review or inclusion in the Good Food Guide.