It’s neither small nor intimate, but Pendolino is still very much a date place. The lighting is low, the music is jazzy, and every white-clothed table is topped with a red rose. It’s just the kind of set-up that could give a friend or colleague the wrong idea.

Golden, breaded olives stuffed with duck ragu and a 10-hour amber-hued porcini consomme are labours of love – a reflection of the time and care chef-owner Nino Zoccali puts into the menu. So is the squid ink buccatini, made with nutty farro flour, and heaped with tender calamari in a delicate “sughetto” sauce (even if the plating leans a little fussy).

Pigato and catarratto, among other regional varietals, are sourced directly from Italian producers, while the old-school hospitality ensures your glass is never empty for long.

Good to know: For less commitment, the Bottega wine bar at the front of the restaurant offers excellent imported Italian wines and snacks.

Good Food reviews are booked anonymously and paid independently. A restaurant can’t pay for a review or inclusion in the Good Food Guide.