The Sydney Morning Herald logo
Advertisement
14.5/20

The Pines

Updated ,first published

The dining room.
1 / 7The dining room. Supplied
Rangers Valley koji-cured flank.
2 / 7Rangers Valley koji-cured flank.James Brickwood
Macaroni and cheese with lobster.
3 / 7Macaroni and cheese with lobster.James Brickwood
Mango and passionfruit pavlova.
4 / 7Mango and passionfruit pavlova.James Brickwood
Crispy pork jowl, soy, ginger, pickled pineapple.
5 / 7Crispy pork jowl, soy, ginger, pickled pineapple.James Brickwood
The koji-cured flank steak served with fries and red wine jus.
6 / 7The koji-cured flank steak served with fries and red wine jus.Supplied
The dining room overlooks North Cronulla beach.
7 / 7The dining room overlooks North Cronulla beach. James Brickwood
14.5/20

The Pines

Contemporary$$

Hamptons-channelling eatery in a prime beachfront position.

With a backdrop of Norfolk Island pines shifting in the coastal breeze, and far-stretching views over North Cronulla beach, this all-day eatery nails the relaxed long lunch.

Soft light washes over white wood in the luxe dining room orientated around that million-dollar vista, and with James Metcalfe heading up the kitchen, it’s win after win on a menu that mixes seafood and hefty grills.

Angel hair pasta twirled into a cocoon sits alongside nubs of prawn in an umami loaded XO sauce. Scallop ceviche tangs with citrus and wafer-thin pickled peach, while slow-cooked trout comes in lemongrass broth, topped with tempura lion’s mane mushrooms.

The glass-walled wine room hints that the drinks list means business, housing Grange and well-aged Barolo alongside more everyday drops. Pair that big red with a nicely crusted koji-cured steak, then for afters, go dainty with the prettiest millefeuille and strawberry sorbet.

Good Food reviews are booked anonymously and paid independently. A restaurant can’t pay for a review or inclusion in the Good Food Guide.

Restaurant reviews, news and the hottest openings served to your inbox.

Sign up

Continue this series

South Sydney
Up next
Stairway to Heaven.
  • Review

R by Raita Noda

Earnest omakase party.

Romato, olive crumb and anchovy pizza.
  • Review

Regina La Pizzeria

Pillowy pizza in wood-fired, pan-baked and fritta forms.

Previously
Spring rolls and sugar cane prawns at Phu Quoc in Cabramatta.
  • Review

Phu Quoc

Evergreen favourite with a perennial queue.

See all stories

From our partners

Advertisement
Advertisement