Talk about a glitzy view. Floor-to-ceiling windows frame a majestic panorama of the Opera House, enough to make any local feel like an awestruck tourist. We can only imagine the sensation is further enhanced if you’re on a Park Hyatt staycation.

Sustainability and seasonal produce drive the menu here, curated by James Viles (formerly of Bowral’s two-hatted Biota). Think lushly pink free-range Bundarra Berkshire pork paired with soft poached pear or Coffs Harbour bonito huddled beneath Newcastle-grown autumnal microgreens.

Soft and buttery shavings of wagyu bresaola score an acidic lift from a caesar-inspired dressing and there’s much to like about the toasted seaweed butter (made from Tasmanian wakame and Japanese-sourced kombu) cascading over plump tranches of Murray cod.

Choose from the three-course set menu or the longer – and more varied – tasting menu with matched wine or non-alcoholic pairings.

Good to know: Attentive dietary restrictions (41 options, the most we’ve ever seen) can be flagged ahead when booking online.

Good Food reviews are booked anonymously and paid independently. A restaurant can’t pay for a review or inclusion in the Good Food Guide.