Finding an angle when the city is so flush with copy-paste luxury grills is a challenge, and although The Dining Room (in the refreshed bones of The Argyle) bills itself as a generalist, it certainly hits the tropes: a seafood bar, premium cuts, desserts promising childlike glee.

But that doesn’t mean what’s on the plate isn’t worth your time: a crudo of Paspaley pearl meat, strewn with super-ripe persimmon that slyly mimics the mollusc’s slippery texture; steaks of noble heritage, grilled attentively and rested just until the slices have iridescent sheen.

Meanwhile, the cellar’s stacked wall-to-wall with rare and prestigious bottles. The tables could be closer together, and the attention to detail in the whole show would only benefit from rising to meet the execution in the kitchen, but there’s plenty here to enjoy, especially if you swing past cocktail bar the Tailor Room after dinner.

Good to know: Steak and eggs for brekkie or a build-it-yourself burger for lunch in The Garden is an open secret worth being in on.

Good Food reviews are booked anonymously and paid independently. A restaurant can’t pay for a review or inclusion in the Good Food Guide.