It’s the little things that make the ’House tick. A thick napkin swaddling oven-fresh madeleines. Intuitive service. A wine list of old and new world styles that you could almost navigate by mood. A beautifully balanced and paced menu devised by chef Joel Bickford.

Start with the bite of raw onion against lightly pickled mussels and an airy goat’s-curd tart showered with pistachios. A sandwichette of house-made wagyu pastrami, pickles and hot sauce puts a full stop on snacks. Next, spanner crab and bottarga risotto – creamy with just the right amount of bite.

Vegetables are no slouch, and given plenty of air-time: check the earthy, coal-baked beetroot or honeyed heirloom carrots finished with toasted sesame seeds.

Biggest regret of the meal? Not cancelling dinner and ordering another bottle of the bright, ripe ‘Tyrannosaurus Dredge’ pinot meunier and a side serve of hasselback potatoes for a post-lunch snack.

Must-order dish: Spanner crab risotto with a creme fraiche injection.

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