With its blackboard wall and chef-owner ‘Big’ Sam Young weaving through tables in Nike Air Max sneakers, S’more looks every bit the neighbourhood haunt – until you open the menu to reveal lobster, truffles and triple-digit prices. The wagyu rib-eye is just shy of $400, and caviar appears almost 10 times over. At a nearby table, a curious toddler licks it from the back of his mother’s hand.

Young and co-owner Grace Chen run a casual spot, but are serious about premium produce and labour-intensive dishes. While some demand a splurge, the standouts don’t: shallot buns, baked fresh daily, are fluffy sponges for whipped miso butter. Toothfish falls into scalloping flakes over shimeji mushrooms in black-bean sauce. Roast chicken, days in the making, has that coveted crackle of golden skin, served with peppery jus.

Everything is rich and glossed with sauce, and dessert – rice pudding brûlée with dark chocolate cremeux – keeps the indulgence coming.

Good to know: Check Instagram for luxe, limited specials before they sell out.

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