Step into the soft lights of Roy’s on a Friday night and there’s a party celebrating a 25th around the communal table, a couple raising a toast to their anniversary, and two mates in hoodies sitting at the window people-watching.

All these occasions feel right here: pop in for just a glass of something from the Aussie-leaning drinks list, or have an all-out celebratory dinner. Choose the latter, and it might start with grilled and fried octopus charged with zingy black-garlic sauce, paired with a glass of Roy’s own custom beer made by Southern Highlands Brewing Co.

Things can get rich between the deep-fried baguette and buttery gnocchi Parisian, so add the grilled zucchini sandwiched between a creamy hazelnut sauce with crisped kale leaves for a fresh lift.

For dessert, stewed rhubarb and velvety white chocolate custard beneath a crunchy, caramelised sugar crisp is one for everyone, whatever the occasion.

Good to know: At $75 a head, the set menu for groups is good value, and leaves more space to focus on a natural-led wine list.

Good Food reviews are booked anonymously and paid independently. A restaurant can’t pay for a review or inclusion in the Good Food Guide.