This place favours quiet confidence over flash, from the food to the white tablecloths beneath monochrome vignettes of Italian streetscapes.

Familiar staples anchor the menu, overseen by Federico Zanellato and Karl Firla – with subtle tweaks that prove their pedigree. The beef tartare, rich and piquant, is tossed with bright orange hen yolk and smeared onto spiced kipfler crisps, so delicate they’re nearly translucent.

Of course there’s bread and butter: warm, crusty ciabatta with 36-month Parmigiano Reggiano whipped into the spread. The standout is the veal saltimbocca: thick fillets, seared and blushing, come with fried prosciutto and sage, a molten layer of cheese, and glossy marsala sauce.

Pick from their broad wine list (heavy on Italian and Australian drops) and sit al fresco as Angel Place hums around you. It’s the simple things.

Must-order dish: Veal saltimbocca.

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