In a part of the city that dresses up for dinner, Ragazzi is a charming, candle-lit pocket of relief in Angel Place. Cosy up in leather banquettes and bentwood chairs for an evening of smart Italian cooking with soulful little twists from beyond its borders.

Cantabrian anchovy on toast, slathered with herbaceous butter, is an anchor on a frequently changing snack menu. Raw tuna is served on a crisp deep-fried sheet of pasta and lifted by apple, wasabi and furikake.

‘Nduja vinaigrette with grilled scallops is a subtle, fiery take on surf ‘n’ turf. But it’s pasta that’s the star of the menu with straight takes on classics like cacio e pepe, or more imaginative seasonal dishes, such as earthy Jerusalem artichoke ravioli enriched with burnt honey sauce.

An extensive minimal-intervention wine list explores all corners of Italy, with a great selection of vermouth and amaro to bookend your evening.

Best for: Post-work date night.

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