Among the burnt-butter light of Paski’s cosy interior hangs a version of The Last Supper – but consider it Paski-fied: Saint James is disgruntled over his empty glass, Judas looks like he’s swilling a cup of chilled frappato, and in Jesus’ outstretched palm? A wedge of eyed cheese.

It’s an irreverence and playfulness that comes naturally to Paski, where both levels hum with chatty, happy devotees even when it’s pouring outside. It’s plain to see why they’d brave the rain for the zippoli, a fist of warm dough draped in prosciutto and scattered with fennel seeds – smashing with a glass of sparkly syrah.

Prawn and burrata tortelli are marbled with marjoram and lemon, while gnocchi with peas and rabbit ragu is supple and rich. A persimmon and quince tart is an elegant way to finish, capped with delicate pastry and finished with pine nuts and a half moon of cold cream.

Good to know: You can also shop the shelves, with bottles from the seriously impressive wine list available to takeaway.

Good Food reviews are booked anonymously and paid independently. A restaurant can’t pay for a review or inclusion in the Good Food Guide.