Father and son Pino and Marc Russo’s website says their Enmore Road restaurant is styled on traditional Italian trattorias and they “don’t play Andrea Bocelli”. It does play tapes of Italian language lessons in the bathroom, though, which is handy.

While the Russos are telling a story of Italian migration and channeling the 1970s, chef Jowoon Oh’s food feels very much of the moment. Take the bite-sized salty-sweet taralli doughnuts topped with fermented black garlic and anchovy, and scallops served on the shell slathered with butter and guanciale XO. Both are fabulous with a glass of skin-contact Cantina Giardino “Paski” or a chilled Tom Shobbrook red.

The two-level terrace-style eatery feels very lived in, with dripping candles on the fireplace and cute frilly-curtained windows adding charm. So does the generous and warm service that makes any occasion – a Tuesday night or an anniversary dinner – feel special.

Must order: One of Oh’s always-changing specials, such as smoked acorn spaghetti with sea urchin butter and wild chervil.

Good Food reviews are booked anonymously and paid independently. A restaurant can’t pay for a review or inclusion in the Good Food Guide.