Who says that takeaway by the beach had to be fish and chips? Sure, everyone loves deep-fried, but for those who want to expand their seaside dining horizons, there’s Norma’s.

Most meals – perilously overstuffed sandwiches on exemplary fresh focaccia, spanakopita that Yiayia would endorse, or a deliciously cinnamony lamb moussaka – are quickly heated and packaged to go.

Salads are fresh and functional. But there’s also a small menu of things finished to order, and the subtly flavoured taramasalata with hot flatbread and a herby Greek salad is definitely worth the wait, with tables available for those who want to linger with a glass of wine from a solid, natural-heavy list.

Sit-in or not, choosing just one slice of cake from the stacked selection is a challenge, but if helpful staff recommend the Basque cheesecake, know that it’s both pleasingly crumbly and not too sweet. If only all fast food could be this way.

Good to know: Get in early or what you’re craving might already be sold out.

Good Food reviews are booked anonymously and paid independently. A restaurant can’t pay for a review or inclusion in the Good Food Guide.