Few wood-fired ovens in the city see as much action as the one at the heart of this Surry Hills institution, charring brined birds, puffed flatbreads and goat shawarma empanadas. All those deliciously blackened edges are enhanced with Middle Eastern sauces, spices and pickled treats, and the blistered wattleseed-zaatar bread mops up super smooth cannellini bean hummus or burrata with fennel jam.

Spatchcock is given a garlic kick from a slick of toum and framed with pickled guindillas; rainbow trout is deftly grilled and glistens with saffron butter. The wine list is as boisterous and expansive as the dining room, and although the olive oil ice-cream sandwich is (rightly) the stuff of legends, leaving room for multiple desserts is rewarded with a hefty dark chocolate delice.

The service isn’t quite as efficient as the last time we visited, but everyone on the floor is still very friendly and Nomad is still one the top “feast” options in town when you have a big group to book for.

Must order: Fried green olives and a martini to start.

Good Food reviews are booked anonymously and paid independently. A restaurant can’t pay for a review or inclusion in the Good Food Guide.