Mu Omakase is the high-end expression of Canberra’s embrace of secluded laneway dining. Just off Lyric Lane you’ll be guided into an intimate, low-lit space with shelves stacked with Kondo-like precision. A handful of diners enjoy a dozen or so refined plates over two hours, commencing perhaps with a cleansing tea of jujube and beetroot, followed by royal red prawns enlivened with finger lime and makrut lime leaf.

More robust dishes follow, from rich, giving toothfish with persimmon to a street-food inspired chicken-wing ‘gyoza’ stuffed with spanner crab. And the whole show is usually finished with a touch of theatre as chef Chuck Yu slices and plates wagyu sirloin hot from the charcoal grill.

Outstanding wine and sake advice from Jasmine Choi – delivered with a touch of well-measured banter – rounds out a rare and special experience in the national capital.

Good to know: Mu takes a broad view of omakase, so don’t expect a nigiri-fest.

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