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14.5/20

Morena

Updated ,first published

Inside the luxe dining room.
1 / 9Inside the luxe dining room.Edwina Pickles
Ox tongue anticuchos.
2 / 9Ox tongue anticuchos.Edwina Pickles
Snapper ceviche with leche de tigre.
3 / 9Snapper ceviche with leche de tigre.Edwina Pickles
Half a free-range chicken with white corn puree.
4 / 9Half a free-range chicken with white corn puree.Edwina Pickles
Coconut sponge with coconut diplomat cream.
5 / 9Coconut sponge with coconut diplomat cream.Edwina Pickles
The outdoor portico is fringed with cocktail tables.
6 / 9The outdoor portico is fringed with cocktail tables.Edwina Pickles
Suckling pig forequarter.
7 / 9Suckling pig forequarter.Edwina Pickles
Goat’s cheese custard, Andean crisps, aji panca and huacatay oil.
8 / 9Goat’s cheese custard, Andean crisps, aji panca and huacatay oil.Edwina Pickles
O’Connor beef eye fillet, saltado sauce, aji amarillo.
9 / 9O’Connor beef eye fillet, saltado sauce, aji amarillo.Arianna Leggiero
14.5/20

Morena

South American$$

In a nutshell: Punchy Latin American flavours in Sydney’s CBD.

Executive chef Alejandro Saravia has crafted a flavour-packed itinerary across Latin America, right in the heart of Martin Place. First stop: Mexico. Slices of raw swordfish and crisp cucumber are rested in a cold, citrusy broth that hints of winter melon. The bluefin tuna belly tostada is a smoky and spicy affair with fiery salsa macha tempered by roasted avocado cream.

Next up is Argentina, with a well-charred and attentively seasoned Black Market Denver steak, melting gracefully on the palate and paired with tangy chimichurri.

A quick journey to Brazil calls for hearty, coconut-scented moqueca, the stew loaded with cod, prawn, scallop and squid, paired with steamed rice and toasted cassava flour.

The elegant dining room may be inside the heritage-listed former Sydney General Post Office, but with such a roving menu, and a wine list that follows the brief, you could well be in Buenos Aires.

Must-order dish: Black Market Denver steak with chimichurri.

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