Maydanoz is chef Somer Sivrioglu’s take on the dishes from Turkey’s eastern Aegean coast that aren’t much seen in Australia, and like great tour guides, the waitstaff take such pleasure in lovingly navigating you through the menu, from cilbir, here rendered as quail eggs with garlic yoghurt and Marash pepper on toast, to piyaz, featuring white beans with their Japanese cousins edamame in a bright sauce of dill and tahini.

There’s plenty to share, especially with stone-baked bread to tear into: order the whipped feta strewn with sweet and sour grapes and have at it. Next stop? Meaty hunkar begendi, which equals lamb on a bed of pureed smoked eggplant. Yes, the restaurant may be just off the very unglamorous Wynyard bus station, but the room itself is all glamour, backed by a wine list that’s a tribute to Turkish viticulture. How refreshing.

Best for: A sophisticated, plant-focused menu.

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