This World Square hot pot spot is a slick operation, with individual temperature-controlled induction pots, QR code ordering (ask for the paper menu if you prefer to see all options at once) and complimentary paper aprons to minimise any soup splatter damage which is all but guaranteed.

The pitch here is the availability of hand-cut beef (no pork) and a Cantonese signature soup base made from cow bones; bright tangerine-orange walls are splashed with cow motifs and hyped up slogans like “beef till you’re filled”.

Everyone gets their own hot pot which means you also get to choose your own soup base, ranging from tangy tomato and oxtail soup to the fiery red Sichuan-style spicy fish number. The pipi soup wins points for its sweet seafood notes but we can see why the signature soup is so popular – its herbal beefy undertones are full of flavour but won’t overpower your added ingredients.

Personal hotpots mean there’s no squabbling over how many fish balls should go into the communal pot at any one time, or who forgot to take out the slice of beef that now resembles leather.

Waitstaff quietly top up your soup when the tide gets low. A self-serve sauce bar lets you customise your dipping bowl with as little or as much raw garlic, coriander, sesame sauce and chilli as you can handle.

Must order: The Master Cow beef platter is the dish that makes everyone’s head turn: a golden cow statue adorned with a huge variety of beef cuts and brought to the table in plumes of dry-ice.

Good Food reviews are booked anonymously and paid independently. A restaurant can’t pay for a review or inclusion in the Good Food Guide.