If only every restaurant matched Margaret’s unerring consistency and confidence. Then again, it takes a chef-patron like Neil Perry and his consummately professional team to make it happen – not to mention an arsenal of elite produce, exclusively imported champagne and a fit-out worth a cool $5 million.

Even at 50-plus dishes, the menu still reads like a greatest-hits LP: velveteen swatches of albacore sashimi kissed with brown-rice vinegar; ripe smoked black figs split over fluffy curds of stracciatella; Blackmore wagyu rump sealed with an enviable crust.

And while these ideas may seem uncomplicated, the technique behind them is anything but, evident in each layer of the staggeringly crunchy twice-cooked potatoes, say, and the perfect engineering of a prune and custard tart that harks back to a Rockpool classic. Endearingly timeless, searingly relevant stuff.

Best for: Homegrown steak and wild-caught seafood of the highest order.

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