No, Lamshed’s isn’t missing the letter “b”. And it’s not housed in the Yarralumla Woolshed. Still, co-owners and long-time buddies Jeff Lamshed and Matt Aspland offer a warm style of hospitality that’s common to the country, and what’s on the plate is similarly polished and accessible.

From an open kitchen, Lamshed runs a tight ship while keeping in touch with customers. A starter of gnocco fritto with mortadella mousse seldom leaves the menu, and kingfish crudo features often, perhaps garnished with pickled celery and fried quinoa for crunch.

And, in a strong contender for signature dish, golden-brown snapper fillet rests on a creamy risotto speckled with fennel and mussels. Aspland’s time at Rockpool is evident in his wine recommendations, drawing on a list that suits conservative tastes and natural wine lovers alike. Country sensibilities, city panache.

Good Food reviews are booked anonymously and paid independently. A restaurant can’t pay for a review or inclusion in the Good Food Guide.