In a city quick to follow dining trends, it’s a delight to find a restaurant like Kindred. Service is affable and deliciously enabling (“yes, two pastas is a wise decision”), and the timber-terrific dining rooms are as welcoming as a family home.

Order the excellent house-made sourdough: it’s ideal for sopping up the Parmigiano-Reggiano custard sitting under Jerusalem artichoke, or the brown butter accompanying carrot triangoli – pretty pasta bundles of carrot puree and goat’s cheese, so close to perfect they’ll never leave the menu.

If you’re pro Bolognese, Kindred’s deeply savoury beef version is an essential order, while chubby bucatini flopped through passata flecked with guanciale gives joy.

There’s plenty of vegetarian options, and if you need an excuse to stay longer, the far-reaching list of vino, mostly under $100, will do the trick. Love homestyle Italian heroes? Here’s your kindred spirit.

Best for: Cosy, delicious dining that feels as welcoming as a family home.

Good Food reviews are booked anonymously and paid independently. A restaurant can’t pay for a review or inclusion in the Good Food Guide.