‘Cosy neighbourhood bistros’ are a dime a dozen, but for the perfect mix of low-key comfort, plates nailing elegant takes on classics, plus a dose of retro Australiana, Jane’s your gal.

Sister to Surry Hills degustation-diner Arthur, the casual sibling continues the family tradition of exceptional produce heightened with bang-on native flavours. Nab a coveted perch at the marble-topped bar or else the windowside table or an old-school boothette for the compelling line-up.

Charred scallops doused in buttery vermouth emulsion, say, or the long-time favourite rich-red, harissa-spiced kangaroo tartare with wafer-thin crisps. Or plump and juicy lamb dumplings with a kick of green chilli and saltbush.

Further brilliance includes a slab of potato cake layered with buttermilk and shavings of cured egg, and lemony green ants sprinkled over rockmelon sorbet, plus elite wines and clever cocktails that love local. Date night or mate night, Jane’s the perfect remedy.

Good to know: Potentially Sydney’s best happy hour, “Australiano hour”, means $3 Sydney rocks, $15 Spirits of Newtown gin martinis and plenty more in between from 5pm weeknights.

Good Food reviews are booked anonymously and paid independently. A restaurant can’t pay for a review or inclusion in the Good Food Guide.