Pulcinella was originally an outdoor enterprise, operating out of owner Alessio Zullo’s backyard, but the pizza was so popular he relocated to a three-storey, 200-seat restaurant nearby.

Here, the paint-splattered decor maintains Zullo’s DIY aesthetic, and a cocktail bar serves drinks until midnight on weekends (rarer in Parramatta than it should be).

Handmade pasta and deep-fried pizza fritta make an already stacked menu even more difficult to choose from, but blistered crust classics such as a buffalo mozzarella margherita and the Matesina (porcini mushrooms with smoked provolone) are the right way to start.

Larger groups might gravitate to the Vesuvio, a double layered calzone-esque affair stuffed with ham, mushrooms, house-made sausage and a mighty dose of cheese.

Wood-fired lasagne is a non-pizza highlight, and the oven also works its magic on lamb shanks, whole trout and the occasional steak, while black cherry gelato caps off dessert.

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