There’s a timelessness about this 24-year-old trattoria in shady Potts Point that means you can have a grand old time whether sitting on the street for a sunny summertime lunch or inside on a chilly winter evening.

The full package of aproned waiters, clothed tables, dim lighting and icy-cold aperitivi conspire to make you feel you’re in just the right place at the right time.

The menu is tightly edited around crowd favourites – golden calamari sant’Andrea and a much-loved spaghetti with scampi studded with cherry tomatoes – with meaty options that include a slightly bland crumbed piccata of veal in a lemony sauce. A warm green apple tart on a pond of creme anglaise is comfort by the spoonful.

The brothers Fratelli now run both 10 William Street and new bar Paradise as well, but the mothership will always be the mothership.

Good to know: Service is continuous from 12pm until late.

Good Food reviews are booked anonymously and paid independently. A restaurant can’t pay for a review or inclusion in the Good Food Guide.