True to its name, the wooden beams, communal dining table and shelves filled with glasses and crockery evoke the feeling of dining in a country homestead. And even if this snug diner is closer to the CBD than a rural idyll, it takes its seasonal produce seriously.

The country loaf with house-churned butter lives up to the rustic billing, landing alongside snacks of salmon rillettes dressed smartly with yuzu, and a yellow-pea croquette with truffle mayonnaise. Riverine beef rump tartare has a kick of aleppo pepper that’s nicely checked by almond cream, while hearty Bannockburn chicken finished over the grill has pops of fruity freshness from a rich blackberry sauce and – again, housemade – wholegrain mustard.

Owner Mike Mu Sung seamlessly runs the floor, with a friendly, knowledgeable approach to the Australian-French wine list. Step back out into the city streets blinking.

Good Food reviews are booked anonymously and paid independently. A restaurant can’t pay for a review or inclusion in the Good Food Guide.