Step into this underground CBD restaurant and the snacks can hook you from the first bite. It might be the cream and crunch of a crisp tortilla stuffed with raw salmon that does it, or perhaps the deep undertones of a smoked black-bean dip.

Either way, they’re precursors to a menu that travels across Mexico but isn’t strictly traditional about it, plenty of it powered by a custom parilla. Go for the vongole, and it’s rich with chorizo, bright with pickled cactus and textural from chochoyotes, the masa dumplings.

Tacos al pastor sees pork cooked on a vertical spit then piled onto hand-pressed tortillas, while the “butcher’s choice” steak is a lesson in cooking over charcoal.

Stay upstairs and you’ll have sightlines to the chefs in the kitchen, or head down to the bar for one of the largest assortments of agave-based spirits in the country.

Best for: Mexican cooking in swish surrounds, fuelled by mezcal and tequila.

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