Save room for dessert? Food-writing cliches aside, we’re still swooning over Eschalot’s maple ice-cream – and a rosemary and olive-oil version, over a single size plum tarte tatin. They’ve nailed the churn, for sure. Oh and a super-crunchy side of smashed chat potatoes? We’d have those again any time.

This 1840s inn, filled with heritage fireplaces, gilt mirrors, charcoal walls and the occasional stag’s head, has seen many life cycles, even through this restaurant guide.

These days it’s Mediterranean-ish with a small-to-larger-plates menu: leek, chilli and manchego croquettes; crunchy sticks of eggplant on burrata with a swipe of local honey; and maybe a sizeable lamb shoulder, flaking apart over a rich yoghurt base (more mole rojo sauce next time, please!).

Service is enthusiastic and ingredients and wine have a local focus, including greens from the kitchen garden. We predict many more dining decades ahead.

Good Food reviews are booked anonymously and paid independently. A restaurant can’t pay for a review or inclusion in the Good Food Guide.